Practical points for boundary work in Canonbury
Overhanging branches crossing a boundary line
A property owner generally has the right to cut back branches or roots that cross the boundary from a neighbour's tree, up to the boundary line, though the cut material technically still belongs to the tree's owner and should be offered back.
This self-help right doesn't apply where the tree is protected by a Tree Preservation Order or sits in a conservation area, in which case permission is needed before cutting.
Where a fence line is being planned near an overhanging tree, checking the tree's protected status first avoids inadvertently carrying out unauthorised work.
Child safety at gaps and low openings
Gaps between vertical balusters or slatted infill wide enough to trap a small child's head are a recognised hazard, and the common guidance used for balustrades and railings — keeping gaps under 100mm — is a sensible benchmark for garden fencing near play areas too.
Horizontal rails on an otherwise vertical fence design can also create an unintentional climbing frame for a young child trying to get over a boundary, which is worth considering near a pool, driveway or road-facing frontage.
These details matter most on fences separating a garden from open water, a road, or a shared driveway, where the consequence of a small gap or easy foothold is more serious than on an internal garden division.
Fencing alongside a shared access driveway
A driveway shared by two or more properties usually carries a right of way that limits how close a new fence can come to the actual running surface, regardless of who legally owns the land beneath it.
Width needs checking against the widest vehicle that regularly uses the shared drive, not just a car, since delivery vans and refuse vehicles are a common reason an otherwise reasonable-looking fence line turns out too tight.
Gates across a shared driveway need agreement from all parties with a right of way over it, and usually a means of access — a code, a key, or simply leaving it unlocked — for everyone who needs to use the route.
Drilling into engineering brick or dense blockwork
Engineering brick and dense concrete block are far harder than ordinary facing brick, so standard masonry drill bits blunt quickly and a hammer-action drill with a carbide-tipped bit designed for dense material is needed to make progress without excessive heat.
Drilling slowly with intermittent withdrawal to clear dust keeps the bit cooler and the hole cleaner than forcing continuous pressure, which tends to glaze the hole and reduce the fixing's grip.
Where a wall is engineering brick specifically because it's load-bearing or below damp-proof course, it's worth checking that the fixing depth and pattern doesn't compromise the wall's structural role before drilling a run of holes into it.
Ledger board fixing to an existing wall
A ledger board bolted to an existing house wall to support one edge of a deck needs to be fixed through masonry into structural material, with a damp-proof membrane strip behind it and flashing above to stop water tracking into the wall build-up.
Fixing a ledger to a cavity wall needs care to avoid bridging the cavity or compressing insulation, and on a rendered or clad wall the fixings need to reach the structural leaf behind the finish rather than just gripping the surface material.
Where the wall build-up is unclear or the deck is heavily loaded, a free-standing beam and post arrangement independent of the house wall avoids the risk altogether.
Laminated engineered timber posts
Laminated posts are built up from several thinner timber sections glued face to face under pressure, which can even out natural defects like knots across the section and produce a straighter, more dimensionally stable post than a single sawn piece of the same size.
Because the lamination process distributes any given defect across a smaller proportion of the overall section, a laminated post is generally less likely to fail suddenly at a single knot or grain irregularity than solid sawn timber.
The adhesive bond line itself becomes a potential weak point if it's exposed to sustained moisture without an appropriate exterior-rated glue, so laminated posts intended for outdoor use need adhesives specifically rated for damp exposure rather than interior-grade bonding.
