West Hampstead is part of our Camden coverage under Camden Council, with its own property mix and its own recurring brief.
Streets we regularly work on here: Priory Road, Aldred Road, West End Lane, Mill Lane. Local anchors: Emmanuel School, Fortune Green, West Hampstead thameslink station.
West Hampstead includes a significant number of mansion blocks with shared communal rear gardens, alongside private Victorian terraces on streets such as Sumatra Road and Aldred Road. Fortune Green is a well-used local green space. Mill Lane slopes down toward West End Green, giving the street a noticeable gradient.
Practical points for boundary work in West Hampstead
Working within narrow plot access
Some plots simply don't have a route wide enough for a wheelbarrow, let alone a van, which means every post, board and bag of aggregate goes in by hand across a longer distance than usual.
That changes both the time a job takes and, sometimes, the choice of materials — favouring shorter, lighter sections that two people can carry over long single panels that need mechanical handling.
It's worth flagging access constraints at the quote stage rather than on the day, since they're one of the most common reasons a job takes longer than a straightforward driveway-access equivalent.
CDM regulations on domestic and commercial jobs
The Construction (Design and Management) Regulations 2015 apply to domestic projects as well as commercial ones, though on a domestic job the homeowner's CDM duties normally pass automatically to the contractor or principal contractor rather than sitting with the client directly.
On a commercial or public sector site, or a domestic job involving more than one contractor, formal duty-holder roles (principal designer, principal contractor) need to be identified and a construction phase plan put in place before work starts.
Even a straightforward domestic fencing job benefits from basic CDM thinking — safe access, checking for overhead cables or buried services, and clear site boundaries during the works — regardless of whether the formal paperwork threshold is met.
Post shoe drainage detailing
A metal post shoe supports a timber post above a concrete or paved surface, and the shoe's base plate needs a way for water to drain away rather than pooling directly under the post's end grain.
Shoes with a raised or perforated base, rather than a flat solid plate, let water that does reach the post's foot drain or evaporate rather than sitting trapped between metal and timber.
Even a well-designed shoe underperforms if it's set into a low point that collects surface water, so the surrounding ground or paving level, not just the shoe detail itself, needs to shed water away from the post base.
Boundary work near underpinning or subsidence repairs
A property that's had underpinning or subsidence repair work sometimes has ground disturbance extending into the garden near the boundary, which can affect where a new fence line can safely be dug without disturbing settled ground.
Where underpinning is recent, it's worth checking with whoever carried out the structural work before digging post holes nearby, since the settlement process can continue for some time after the visible repair is finished.
Cracking in an existing boundary wall running close to a subsidence-affected building is sometimes an early symptom worth reporting rather than just repairing cosmetically.
Lichen colonising capping and post tops
Lichen tends to establish on horizontal or gently sloped timber surfaces that stay damp longest, which makes flat-topped capping and post caps more susceptible than the vertical panel faces below them.
Unlike algae, lichen grows slowly and bonds tightly to the timber surface, so a stiff brush rather than a pressure washer is usually needed to remove it without damaging the wood fibres underneath.
Once removed, a capping profile with a fall to shed water reduces how quickly lichen re-establishes compared with a flat top that holds a film of moisture after every rain.
The typical sequence for installing a fence run
A well-run fencing job generally sets out the full line first, digs and concretes every post before fixing anything else, and only starts hanging panels, rails or boards once every post has had time to cure.
Fixing panels to posts before the concrete has cured risks knocking a post out of true, which is why rushing straight from digging into panel-fitting on the same visit is usually avoided on anything beyond a very small repair.
Working this way also means any post that turns out to be misaligned is caught and corrected before panels are cut to fit it, rather than after, when correcting the post means undoing finished work.
