Costs & pricing
Decking Costs: Softwood, Hardwood or Composite?
Boards are the visible cost and rarely the decisive one. What sits under the deck, and how level the ground was to begin with, often matters more to the final figure than which board you pick.
People usually choose decking by board, then discover the price is set by the frame, the ground and the height off the soil. It is worth understanding both halves before setting a budget, because it changes what you should spend the money on.
Below is an honest comparison of the three board families we fit, followed by the parts of a deck you never see and always pay for.
The three board families
Each family suits a different owner rather than being better or worse outright. The question is how much upkeep you genuinely want to do once the novelty has worn off.
- Softwood looks best when it is looked after and tired when it is not
- Hardwood silvers gracefully if you let it, or keeps its colour if you oil it
- Composite will not take a stain, so choose the colour you actually want
| Board | Relative cost | Upkeep | Suits |
|---|---|---|---|
| Treated softwood | Lowest | Regular cleaning and treating | Value led projects, larger areas |
| Hardwood | High | Occasional oiling to hold colour | A natural timber finish that lasts |
| Composite | Highest | Washing down only | People who want to stop maintaining it |
The substructure decides the budget
A deck is a frame with a surface on top. Joist size, joist spacing, how the frame is supported and how far off the ground it sits are the real cost engine, and they are not optional. A frame built at too wide a spacing feels bouncy underfoot from the first week and cannot be fixed without lifting the boards.
- Joist centres tightened where boards run diagonally or where composite requires it
- Support posts or pads set on something solid rather than on soil
- Ventilation under the deck so the frame dries out after rain
- Levelling out ground fall, which can be a bigger job than the deck itself
Extras that change the total
Steps, handrails, a fascia to close the edge, integrated seating and lighting are all common and all priced separately. A raised deck with a balustrade is a considerably larger piece of work than a deck sitting just above a lawn, so decide on height early.
Which we would suggest, and why
If the deck is a feature you will sit on constantly and you would rather not think about it again, composite earns its money. If you enjoy the look of real timber and do not mind a weekend a year, good softwood or hardwood on a properly built frame is excellent value.
Ready for a figure?
Tell us the rough size, the height off the ground and how you want to use the space, and we will price it properly after a visit. Have a look at the decking we have built recently, then ring 07885907880.
Frequently asked
Is composite decking cheaper in the long run?
It can be, because there is no staining or oiling and boards do not need replacing individually. The saving is in upkeep and time rather than in the purchase.
How much of a decking budget goes on the frame?
A meaningful share, and more where the ground slopes or the deck sits high. The frame is not the place to economise, because the boards depend on it.
Does hardwood decking need oiling?
Only if you want to keep the original colour. Left alone it weathers to a silver grey without losing strength.
Can decking go straight onto soil or grass?
No. It needs a properly supported frame with air moving underneath, otherwise the timber stays damp and the deck fails early from below.
Do steps and handrails add much?
Yes, they are separate pieces of joinery. A raised deck needing a balustrade is a noticeably bigger job than a low level platform.
Which decking is best for a shaded garden?
Composite or a hardwood, generally. Shaded softwood stays damp longer and needs cleaning more often to stay looking right.
Thinking about a deck this year?
Tell us the rough size, the height off the ground and how you want to use it, and we will price the frame and the boards properly.